Love Sailing

Having sailed along the cost of Devon and Cornwall for over 20 years, with my limited holiday time until last year we hadn’t ever got north of Dartmouth. With Vicki last summer we had managed to make it as far as Torquay Harbour but having visited there once, we wouldn’t be interested in returning anytime soon. This year l had set my sights on visiting the River Exe.

So today was the day. I had planned to get away at 0600hrs but over slept a little 😴 and it was 0625hrs when l pulled up Elektra’s anchor, motoring back out of the river 3nm, l reached the entrance 0710hrs. The tide stream around Start Point was with us until 0940hrs. With good wind and favourable tide we passed Prawle Point NCI station at 0730hrs and Start Point at 0810hrs having logged 9nm.  Turning northeast Elektra was now running down wind. It was lovely sailing and by 1010hrs she had covered 20nm.

By 1110hrs, it was obvious we would arrive at Exmouth over low water and we needed to arrive 2-3hrs after low water. At which point off Berry Head, l decided to stop for a few hours north of Torquay in Babbacombe Bay. Now heading north to clear the Ore Stone to port before turning northwest into the bay. Then looking back south l could see heavy rain coming, so went below for my coat, back in the cockpit, l only just got it on in time. What followed was about was a squall and 10mins of very heavy rain. Then as quick as it came it was gone again. I rolled away the sail at about the end of the rain and motored Elektra into the cove, where l dropped anchor.

An hour and a half later, l pulled up the anchor again and headed out of the bay towards the Exe. With the wind almost dead behind, l had to gibe down wind a few times then off Teignmouth gibed again onto starboard tack. Just then another squall was approaching from the south, l grabbed my coat again but the this ran up the coastline and totally blocked out Teignmouth before moving on over Exmouth. By now l was only 2nm south of Exmouth entrance and l couldn’t see any land, l am glad to say it cleared off before l started Elektra’s engine to motor her into the river.

Following the navigation buoys into the river and watching the depth sounder. The tide stream was fast and remembering what l had been told about the tide wanting to push you over Bull Hill Bank, so l cut close to the port can buoy no12 around Warren Point. Only to come head on to 2 ferry’s and moved over to get out of their way. Then followed the channel upstream to Starcross Sailing Club, where my friend Peter has a mooring which l could use. Peter was back on the south coast of Cornwall having sailed his Sadler 26 from Exmouth to the Lewis in Scotland since the end of April.

I arrived at his mooring and hooked it first time but it was tangled having not been used for 2 months and couldn’t lift it’s pick up buoy.  Hanging on but the tide was rushed past at 2-3kts, l tried to unhook again l couldn’t and l didn’t want to let go of the boat hook, in the end the boat hook couldn’t hold the weight of Elektra anymore and the top end parted company. I wasn’t happy because I had only bought it last season.

But no good crying over spelt milk, l had to find my spare boat hook and once retrieved l picked up another empty mooring. Once onto a mooring l jotted down the end of day writen log and switched off the instruments. Then l launched the dinghy and fitted the engine. Then motored dinghy over to Peter’s mooring and entangled it and cleaned it. Back to Elektra, l then moved her onto Peter’s mooring by which time l was wanting a rest!

I put on my dinner, while covering the mainsail and other jobs. It was now 1900hrs as l sat down to eat. The numbers were, we had done 42.5nm in 9hrs

Having had an interesting passage the day before, l was having a rest day on Monday. I had been in contact with a CA member who was looking for crew to sail his 50ft yacht to South Brittany at the end of July. And we had agreed to meet for coffee to discuss at 1000hrs. Peter is an elderly gentleman with masses of sailing experience, he had owned his yacht for 20 years and taken her across the Atlantic twice. His wife didn’t sail anymore and didn’t like the idea of him sailing alone. Peter had regular crew but he had been ill and wasn’t able the come this season. After a long chat with questions from both sides, l think we were both happy when we parted to go our separate ways.

Then l had some shopping to get and had shower before going back to Elektra to while away the afternoon in Elektra’s cockpit.

In the evening l had arranged to meet family in Salcombe and the Victoria Inn had been booked for a meal. They wanted to see Elektra, not a problem l said just a 20min dinghy ride in both directions. I timed it on the way down river to meet them and it look 23mins. Anyway, it was a nice dinghy ride in both directions on a sunny evening in Salcombe.

Once back in Salcombe town, the table had been booked for 1830hrs. We sat down, it wasn’t looking that busy but the service was very slow, we did get our drinks after half an hour, but a starter of bread no butter and olives did come out half hour later. After more waiting. We were hungry and wanted to eat. So Patti asked how much longer to get our order? When the waitress came back and said 45mins! We said we will pay the bill and have fish and chips along the road. We had eaten our fish and chips and said our good buys before we would have been served in the Victoria Inn! My advice is don’t go there! Apart from anything else, if you book a table for 1830hrs, you don’t think you will need lights to get back to your anchored yacht.

Having done Fowey or back three times now since Vicki passed. I had realised passage making isn’t difficult on own, it’s the ports and mooring which is difficult.

With a good strong westerly forecast for Sunday l had decided to head for Salcombe 40nm east of Fowey. I looked at the tides and the stream wouldn’t be going my way until 1500hrs, but l couldn’t wait that long because l estimated the passage would take 8hrs and as most of the flow was between Plymouth and Salcombe, it was important for me to have the stream going with us upto Salcombe.

So l dropped the mooring at 1100hrs, it took 20mins to motor Elektra back down the river to Fowey entrance, where l set the genoa. Set up the chart plotter for Bolt Head 32nm away.

Slowly at first but speeding up though the day. As we passed Rame Head at 1500hrs well offshore, Elektra was logging 5kts plus just on her genoa. The sea was building but all seemed well at the time. The sea continued to build to a short 4-5ft swell from the southwest. As Elektra’s track was east-southeast this swell made for a corkscrew ride and the tiller pilot was having problems keeping her on course so l was helming more. The bigger swells would push Elektra’s stern around and she was beginning to broach. So l decided it was time to reef the genoa, but for some reason the furling line was jammed!

Looking over the sprayhood l could see the the furling line was caught in the bow fairlead, l needed to go on deck to free it. Now l wasn’t happy with the idea of doing so, but l was alone and someone had to! So l went below and found a safety line and clipped onto my lifejacket and the jack stays. Then went out onto the pitching deck, once forward of the sprayhood l was on all fours making my way upto the bow. Easy problem to solve once at the bow and l headed back to the cockpit the same way l came. Once back in the cockpit with total relief l quickly reefed the genoa! And things were easier for a while.

But the sea continued to build, as we approached Bolt Head way point the sea was now 5-6ft and l needed to reef the genoa again. It wasn’t because she was going too fast, it was because of the damage which might be caused if she broached badly. After reefing again she was still logging 5kts. Although l like speed, who doesn’t? I am more interested in arriving safety than speed!

Elektra carried on passed the Bolt Head way point, now heading for Salcombe. At the right moment l gibed her around onto a port tack and headed into Salcombe. In passed the Mew Stone and turned north Elektra still logging 5kts. When she slowed, l started her engine and rolled away her genoa and headed for the leading lines over Salcombe Bar. It was then Elektra was hit by force 6 and bare polls healed over very hard. I was glad it was short lived as it disappeared as fast as it came.

Motoring into Salcombe the mooring officer came along side to take my money on the way into the moorings. I said l was going up to Frogmore creek to anchor, he said l will take your money now! But at £18.40 for 2 nights, l didn’t think that was too bad. He asked where  l had come from what the sea was like? From Fowey l said and not very nice, especially the last 3hrs. He said they hadn’t had any others in for 2hrs and the last one said it was bad then!

Motoring on upto Frogmore Creek, l dropped anchor at 2000hrs having logged 39.5nm.

My original plan had been to stay in Place two nights because of the forecast of southerly force 4 gusting 6. But looking at another forecast, it suggested force 4 gusting 5 which wouldn’t be bad for the passage to Fowey in a northeast direction. I pondered on this during the day, kept on looking at the forecasts but both of them still said the same.

I couldn’t leave anyway until Elektra was floating again around 1300hrs by which time l had decided to go. The forecast said southerly but the actual direction was southwest which seemed to work well upto the Dodman but not so good afterwards.

I motored Elektra out of St Mawes and south out around St Anthony light house and set the genoa from there. There didn’t seem as much wind as forecasted southwest so l pulled up the main and spent the next hour reefing it once then twice before pulling it down again. Because the tiller pilot just couldn’t cope with all that sail and being alone l couldn’t helm all the way with other jobs to do like keeping the ships logged adjusting the sails.

Once the mainsail was down again, the next 2hrs Elektra creamed along at over 5kts average. But going down wind after the Dodman Point Elektra slowed and as we passed Cannis Buoy 4.25hrs after leaving Place we had logged 19.5nm.

With no free swing moorings in Fowey harbour, l motored Elektra north to Wisesman’s Reach where the harbour master had placed no mooring tags. So l picked up a local mooring on my third attempt,more difficult than it looks on your own! Lol 😆

I had to hang around all day on Friday 26th June for Cornwall Council to pick up Vicki’s hospital bed. They told me it would be between 9am and 6pm, updating later to 12 to 4pm. And the guy turned up at 4pm and it took him an hour to dismantle, remove and leave.

I spent the day getting ready to leave, so 15min after he left, l was also ready to leave home. Of course by the time l had driven down to St Anthony and launched the dinghy, unloaded the car into it and motored the dinghy out to Elektra and got stowed and ready to leave, it was quite a bit later. I dropped Elektra’s mooring at 1820hrs, l had sailed Elektra across Falmouth, but now a mile south of St Mawes with a ebbing tide and less wind the SOG had dropped off to 2kts. So l started her engine and motored her to Place,  only just making it in. Elektra grounded before l could drop her anchor, so l let her anchor go and enough chain for high water. Packing away, l looked at something for dinner but the meals where still frozen. So l had cheese and biscuits.

At low water, l climbed down Elektra’s boarding ladder and pulled her anchor out and set it by hand, to avoid me worrying about it dragging in the night when the tide came back in.

I was wacked and went to bed early, then about 10pm l heard fireworks, so stuck my head out of the fore hatch and what a wonderful display it was, for some reason it only made me sad that Vicki wasn’t here to see it.

Looking at the forecast and tide, l needed to get Elektra back into Carne Creek by 1100hrs because of strong east wind on Monday.

So l pulled up the anchor at 0930hrs, l had the engine running just in case it was needed, but it wasn’t. Unrolling the genoa Elektra was logging 1.8-2kts and with the chart plotter saying we would arrive in Gillan at 1230hrs, it didn’t take me long to start her engine again and motor her across Falmouth Bay.

I motored Elektra into Gillan Harbour at 1030hrs and on into Carne Creek, where l dropped anchor.

Having spent some time in Fowey in the fog and misty rain, l decided it was time to leave. The tide wasn’t going to be going our way until 1340hrs. But I knew because of the forecast of little or no wind that the passage would be mainly motoring. So by 1100hrs l was fed up waiting.

So l cast off the mooring at 1115hrs, as expected we were motoring southwest into a southwest force 1-2. Motoring on up to the Dodman Point way point which l pasted at 1245hrs. Then with a better angle on the wind, l unrolled the genoa and dropped the revs on the engine, logging 6.5-6.8kts for the next few miles. After that the motor sailing was off and on to Zone Point. But the engine ran all the way and we motored into St Mawes exactly 4hrs after dropping the mooring in Fowey having logged 20.5nm.

There in St Mawes was Robert and Mandy anchored in their Sadler 34, who invited me aboard for a beer. So after doing some jobs, l lowered the dinghy into the water and rowed over for a beer, which turned into another beer and a couple of glasses of wine. Our first toast was too Vicki. I made my excuses at 1930hrs and headed back to Elektra to put on my dinner.

When l was enjoying Bill and Sally’s company the evening before. Richard Banks and his friend Peter had arrived aboard “Spirited” Richard’s Starlight 36. Richard and sent me an email which l hadn’t seen until l returned to Elektra just before dark.

Via email l asked what they were planning for Friday, Richard said going back to Plymouth. I said what time are you leaving, maybe we could chat before you leave. So Richard invited me over for morning coffee at 8am.

So l rowed over in the drizzle at 8am next morning and met Peter, we chatted over coffee. Richard had invited Peter to come down to Plymouth with plans of visiting Scilly  but the weather hadn’t been on their side and also a problem with Richard’s windless had meant they hadn’t gone again. Peter had done lots of sailing but never been to Scilly, so this had turned into another non visit to Scilly sailing holiday. With my talk of Scilly was kind of rubbing salt in it!

With the weather improving, Richard wanted to go over to fill the water tank, before getting back to Plymouth. So l left and went back to Elektra. With the weather improving, l sat in the cockpit and went to sleep again 😴 After “Spirited” had left Fowey the drizzle started again and so l went below. Spending the rest of the day in the cabin, cooked a hot meal and did a few jobs in between resting and answering emails and texts. In the evening a bit more of the same until I went to bed around 10pm.

This had been my cheapest ever visit to Fowey. It wasn’t until the harbour master arrived for mooring fee, that l discovered l had left my wallet at home! I could pay the mooring fee by online banking, but l didn’t have any money to go into town. So with a free night available on my Fowey loyalty card, l just paid £26.50 for one night.

With arrangements for Vicki’s funeral done, l thought a few more days aboard would be good. The forecast southly force 3-4, looked good for getting to Fowey, l had only ever done it once before on my own, so l was slightly worried at the prospect.

On Thursday 18th June at 0720hrs l dropped Elektra’s mooring having slept aboard over night.  There didn’t seem much wind and l had pulled up her mainsail while on the mooring. The visibility was around 3nm because of fog. I motored her out to Carcroc Cardinal Buoy and set sails from there. Elektra logging about 4kts across Falmouth Bay, once south of the Roseland her speed picked up to 5.25- 5.75kts, and continued at that sort of speed until the Dodmin Point.

We were joined with a pod on common dolphins for a time riding Elektra’s bow wave, then as we passed the Dodman she slowed quite a bit around the point, l’m not sure why, and then speeded up a little too 3.5-4kts from there to Cannis Buoy where l started her engine at 1230hrs having logged 21.5nm. I motored her in to Fowey and picked up a swing mooring at 1305hrs having logged 23.5nm

In the afternoon, l filled Elektra’s water tank, in the evening l was invited over to another yacht for a drink, which turned into dinner. Bill and Sally Farrant were very welcoming. I had taken some photos of their yacht sailing during the day which l pasted on to them. They both had a long history of sailing many different types of yachts and were very interesting, they had down sized from a Freedom to this little yacht thinking it would be easier but had found it more work to sail.

With lots going on for Tuesday, it was time to head back on Monday, quite a different day, it was overcast. I either had to leave before low water or after low water. If l went early, l would have to wait in Gillan Harbour on Elektra’s mooring for the tide to come back in, but if l went later the forecast was for the wind to increase which make it hard sail across Falmouth Bay.

In the end l decided to leave early. So l got Elektra ready to leave and by 0930hrs l was pulling her anchor back up. Once l had stowed the anchor in it’s locker. l motored Elektra over to Innisfree and chatted with Keith before leaving. I motored Elektra back down river and out of the moorings off St Mawes before setting sail.

Now being a lone sailor, l had been experimenting this season with how little sail was needed to keep Elektra moving as fast as possible. I had found just using her genoa is a good way to go. But today, it was a beat and normally a mainsail is needed to sail into wind. But l was interested to know how well just the genoa would cope.

I found when starting out of the Carrick Roads in a westerly force 4 the genoa was working well with Elektra logging 5-6kts into wind and not too much healing. The tiller pilot could also cope well. The problem came as the wind eased to a wesrerly force 3, only then did she need more sail. But with only 1.5nm to go, l didn’t bothet pulling up the main, what l have gained would have been lost again packing the sail away again.

Once back on Elektra’s mooring. I had quite a bit of packing up to do. But getting ashore had to wait for 2hrs before the tide would be high enough to get to St Anthony beach with the dinghy.

Home for a shower, next day home shopping was arriving between 0930-1030hrs, followed by a meeting at 1130hrs and another at 1530hrs.